The lively, boisterous city of Palermo may have roots dating back to the Phoenicians of the 8th century BC, but that doesn’t mean it hasn’t developed into the 21st. The Sicilian capital is the creative hub of the island, and there’s no shortage of inspiration: the vibrant metropolis’ architecture, food, and culture have been influenced by the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and Spanish over the centuries, which means it’s a one-stop-shop to get a taste of Sicily’s complex history and traditional flavors. Here, 30 places to do just that.
Thanks to Italy Segreta for creating this City Guide.
RESTAURANTS
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BUATTA
On one of Palermo’s oldest streets, this contemporary restaurant with a modern interior looks almost out of place; but step inside and you’ll immediately feel its old soul. Under Chef Fabio Cardilio, the menu has a similar vibe, with contemporary and upscale takes on traditional Sicilian dishes. All of the produce–and inspiration–comes from nearby producers. Must Order: Sfincione, anelletti alla siciliana, and bucatini con sarde e finocchietto selvaggio.
VIA VITTORIO EMANUELA 176, 90133 PALERMO
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LE ANGELICHE
In a secluded corner of the bustling Mercato di Capo, four young Sicilian women opened this bistro where the fish, meat, and vegetables come from the market and the dried goods from local producers. Must Order: Tortello “ode al pomodoro”, bacio pantesco.
VICO ABBADIA 10-94, 90134 PALERMO
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CORONA TRATTORIA
You’re immediately greeted with the warm smiles of Orazio and his father when you enter this family-run trattoria. Choose from a plethora of mouthwatering dishes all made with local seafood and produce–we love the raw gamberi rossi and all the seafood pastas–and let the sommelier choose the best pairing for you from their selection of hard-to-find natural and traditional Sicilian wines. You’ll need a reservation. Must Order: Calamaretti fritti, bucatini con le sarde, and pasta with squid ink and bottarga.
VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI 9, 90141 PALERMO
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TRATTORIA DA PINO
Trattoria da Pino is THE Palermitan restaurant for large portions of typical, home-cooked Sicilian dishes in a convivial atmosphere. This typical tavern is simply better experienced than written about, especially if you snag a seat at the shared table and make friends with whoever you might be sitting next to–from actors to businessmen to longstanding Palermitan families. Must Order: The swordfish rolls and glazed pasta.
VIA DELLO SPEZIO 6, 90139 PALERMO
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I CUOCHINI
Hidden behind the tiny door on Via Ruggero Settimo between the Teatro Massimo and the Teatro Politeama is one of the oldest gastronomia in the city, open since 1892. You’ll be in-and-out relatively quickly–this place is the precursor to Palermitano street food–as you’re here to order an assortment of mainly-fried, miniature bites from their long counter. Must Order: Panelle and i pezzi di rosticceria (“little pieces”): pasticcini con carne (bread filled with meat sauce), calzone, crocché di latte (fried milk).
VIA RUGGIERO SETTIMO 68, 90139 PALERMO
FOR A SNACK
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CAPPADONIA GELATI
Here, owner and mastermind Antonio Cappadonia, who has been making gelato since 1987, puts extreme care into the selection of his raw materials–mainly local fruits and other ingredients. His inspiration comes from the land, creating flavors like “Fior di Fragole” with strawberries from the Sicani Mountains and “Crema Passito di Noto” with passito from Noto. Be sure to try whatever seasonal fruit flavors he has.
VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE 401, 90134 PALERMO -
I SEGRETI DEL CHIOSTRO
Historically, Sicilian nuns were renowned for their pastries, all made with secret, orally-passed-down recipes and sold from behind closed doors; but they couldn’t compete with the pasticcerie opening across the island. This initiative, The Secrets of the Cloister, brings the nuns and their same age-old recipes back to the spotlight, reopening a bakery and museum inside a stunning monastery. They make the best cannoli we’ve ever had. Must Order: Sicilian cannolo.
PIAZZA BELLINI 33, 90133 PALERMO -
DOLCE CAPO
An excellent gelateria with flavors to die for. Ice creams served in pots, cones or brioche (this is Palermo). It's a no-brainer!
VIA DEI CANDELAI 95, 90134 PALERMO
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BAR VABRES
In the vibrant Botanical Gardens, the 50-year-old Bar Vabres is a secret gem of the Palermitane. Stop in for a perfect breakfast of coffee and a slice of cassata or for a quick lunch of perfectly crunchy arancine. Must Order: Arancina di carne and coffee from the specialty line, a partnership between Alessio Vabres and Etna Roaster.
VIA MICHELE CIPOLLA 83-85, 90123 PALERMO
FOR A DRINK
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BOTEGA COLLETTI
You can recognize this spot by its beautiful red vintage signature. The drinks–with spicy vodka, citrusy rum, and chamomile grappa flavors–have as much character as the exuberant bartenders and the bar–covered with posters, backlit liquor cabinets, and candlesticks. It's the best spot in the city center for a cocktail, and the dark, loungey vibe is perfect for a late night rendezvous.
VIA ALESSANDRO PATERNOSTRO 77, 90133 PALERMO
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CICALA
Inside this wine bar, the vibe is industrial-rustic-chic, with exposed stone, rustic lighting, and floating shelves of wine. Leave the choice of wine–there are over 600 labels, mostly natural–up to the charismatic owner, Filippo, and pair whatever he brings you with one of their great seafood appetizers. Must Order: Milk croquettes and polpette di sarde.
VIA SANT'ALESSANDRO 29, 90133 PALERMO
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BOCUM
Great for a glass of wine and a selection of tapas. Must Order: Croutons with grilled, pickled mussels.
VIA DEI CASSARI 2 - 4, 90133 PALERMO -
BAR TURISTICO AT ARENELLA
Arancine facing the sea in one of the city's oldest ports. A must order: any arancina is a marvel!
VIA COM.TE S.GULI, 212, 90142 PALERMO
TO VISIT
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PALAZZO DEI NORMANNI
The well-maintained apartments in this dreamy royal palace are so well-kept you might expect to see a royal just hopping out of bed! Not to be overlooked is the palace's Palatine Chapel, adorned with entire gold mosaic-covered walls–an undeniably painstaking effort–narrating tales of a city enriched by palm trees and exotic animals.
PIAZZA DEL PARLAMENTO 1, 90129 PALERMO
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STANZE DEL GENIO
Nestled in the Kalsa district, the museum showcases a collection of over 5,000 Sicilian and Campanian brightly-painted majolica tiles from the 1500s to 1900. The diverse tiles once embellished the walls of bourgeois and aristocratic families, illustrating detailed familial history, rivalry, and trends from those eras.
VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI 11, 90133 PALERMO
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CAMERA DELLE MERAVIGLIE
Discovered by accident, this ultra-blue “Chamber of Wonders” is believed to be a prayer or meditation room from the late 1800s, covered with silvery Arabic inscriptions. The engravings–which are read from right to left in Semitic language practice and from left to right in Latin, bear numerous religious references, including the symbolic number seven.
VIA PORTA DI CASTRO 239, 90134 PALERMO
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PALAZZO BUTERA & VALSECCHI COLLECTION
This museum, housed in a historic Baroque palace built by architect Giacomo Amato, features the enormous Valsecchi collection of archaeological pieces, exquisite porcelain, early 20th-century furniture, and unique pieces of contemporary art. The building was originally commissioned by the Branciforti family, renovated in 1759 after it burned down, and then joined to another palace owned by Moncada princes of Paternò.
VIA BUTERA 8, 90133 PALERMO
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CAPO AND BALLARÒ MARKETS
Amidst shouting vendors, the scent of frying food, and overwhelming piles of melons, artichokes, and other produce, you’ll find the real heart of Palermo at these two markets. You can buy anything–from fruits, vegetables, fresh meat and fish, bread, olives, and spices to fresh pressed juices, boiled octopus, fried fish, cookies, and panelle sandwiches–here, and you could spend hours wandering amongst the stalls.
VIA BALLARO, 90134, PALERMO -
BOTANICAL GARDENS
Stop into these stunning gardens for a reprieve on a hot summer day or a bit of color on a winter's day. There are plenty of succulents, water lilies, ancient trees, greenhouses, and benches to welcome you and your book, and the Talea cafe is great for a refreshing mint and lemon water.
VIA LINCOLN 2, 90133 PALERMO -
VILLINO FLORIO
Designed by famous architect Ernesto Basile and commissioned by the prominent Florio family at the turn of the 20th century, this villa is as eclectic as Sicily’s cross-cultural history. The architecture is a combination of medieval elements, modern lines, refined floral carvings, baroque surfaces, Nordic trusses, and turrets that refer to French castles, Romanesque columns, and Renaissance ashlar.
VIALE REGINA MARGHERITA 38, 90138 PALERMO
TO STROLL
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FRATELLI BATTAGLIA SALVATORE E GIUSEPPE SN
Sustainable before sustainable was trendy: this is one of the oldest dried fruit stores in the city, where everything is sold in bulk. Buy grains, legumes, and spices for your pantry and a small bag of roasted chickpeas for your walk.
VIA TORREMUZZA 12, 90133 PALERMO
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PATRIZIA ITALIANO
This is the place to go if you’re interested in Sicilian ceramics. Internationally acclaimed Sicilian ceramist Patrizia Italiano draws inspiration from the landscapes, history, and diverse people of Sicily and the Aeolian island of Filicudi. The colorful clay works are an embodiment of Sicilian daily life, and one of the best souvenirs you can bring home.
VIA RE FEDERICO 21A, 90138 PALERMO
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EDIZIONI PRECARIE
Notebook and stationery lovers, drop by this store, opened by Carmela Dacchille in 2013, for one-of-a-kind designs that aim to recover artisan tradition and local stories: Letter Food Paper tells the story of the historic markets of Palermo by using the meat, fruit, and cheese wrapping papers as writing paper, helping to keep your thoughts, ideas, and drawings equally fresh.
VIA ALESSANDRO PATERNOSTRO 75, 90133 PALERMO
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KEMONIA PUPPET THEATER
From the zoo, you can walk over one of Palermo’s covered rivers on Via Porta di Castro and come across the wonderful Kemonia Puppet Theater, one of the greatest examples of craftsmanship in Palermo. The almost hundred-year-old shop puts on shows with handmade marionette puppets.
VIA DEI BENEDETTINI 9, 90134 PALERMO
HOTELS
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VILLA IGIEA
Set directly on the sea, this luxury hotel is housed in a historic villa designed by the same architect as Villino Florio above. Each of the 78 rooms and 22 suites have a distinctly Sicilian feel, and between these and the ornate decor, terrace and poolside bars, and splendid dining room, you’ll feel as if you were an illustrious guest of the Florio family.
VIA BELMONTE 43, 90142 PALERMO
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PALAZZO NATOLI
Steps from the stunning Cathedral of Palermo is this equally stunning, 12-suite boutique hotel that celebrates the people, culture, and history of the city. The palace, built in 1765 by judge of the Grand Criminal Court Vincenzo Natoli, represents a moment of rebirth for Palermo, and it’s grandeur is captured in 19th-century Palermitan author Luigi Natoli’s novels, many of which are both set in and inspired by the hotel.
VIA SS SALVATORE 6, 90134 PALERMO
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CASA NOSTRA BOUTIQUE HOTEL
Built inside an 1,200-year-old palazzo, this boutique hotel is an oasis of peace amidst the tourist-trodden streets right near Teatro Massimo. The 12 rooms and suites are elegant and well-equipped, each named after a famous Sicilian sight. We’re particular fans of the outdoor jacuzzi, perfect for melting into after a full day of sightseeing.
VIA SAINT'AGOSTINO 134, 90134 PALERMO
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PALAZZO SANTAMARINA
A truly timeless experience! Beyond the beauty of the place, it's the exceptional kindness of every member of staff that will make your stay magical.
VIA DEL CELSO 21, 90134 PALERMO
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