Rome: the chaotic capital that, though hard to live in, you can’t help but to love. We’ve put in the hours of testing and tasting to bring you this list of 31 places that get our hearts fluttering a little faster in the Eternal City. Whether you're a first timer or true Romaphile, these are spots to go to for a slice of local life.
Thanks to Italy Segreta for creating this City Guide.
RESTAURANTS
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PIATTO ROMANO
A meticulous selection of raw materials results in refined and thoughtful versions of classics, and some unique and creative dishes. Their foraged vegetables and wild herbs make for a strong antipasti and contorni game, and their offal dishes are also excellent. The wine selection–with many natural and biodynamic bottles–is as good as the food. Must Order: Misticanza insalata with anchovy-sumac dressing, olive all’ascolana (fried stuffed olives), any of the vegetable starters, and rigatoni alla pajata.
VIA GIOVANNI BATTISTA BODONI 62, 00153 ROMA
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TRECCA
The brainchild of brothers Manuel and Nicolo Trecastelli, this modern version of a traditional Roman trattoria focuses on sourcing fresh, local ingredients. An informal setting, seasonal comfort food, and a pinch of innovation round out the picture. Must Order: Fegato di pollo (chicken liver served as a hash with tiny crispy potatoes) and amatriciana
VIA ALESSANDRO SEVERO 220, 000145 ROMA
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LE MANI IN PASTA
This classic Trastevere spot serves beautiful handmade pastas along with great seafood plates. Hidden in a tiny side street, it’s easy to miss–look out for the black iron door with a chalkboard sign that reads “dieting is just a waste of time.” Pro tip: ask to be seated on the top floor. Must Order: Carpaccio di spigola al tartufo, spaghetti alla pescatore con astice (seafood pasta with lobster), and, as a side dish, the broccolo romano ripassato.
VIA DEI GENOVESI 37, 00153 ROMA
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OSTERIA DER BELLI
Right near Piazza di Santa Maria, this family-owned restaurant offers classic Sardinian specialties and some of the best seafood in the city, along with a tight selection of traditional Roman dishes. Grab an outside table and watch the hustle and bustle of Trastevere. Must Order: Triglie in guazzetto, crudo di gamberi, carpaccio di spigola, calamari e carciofi, tagliolini spigola e pachino, catalana di aragosta, broccolo romano.
PIAZZA DI SANT'APOLLONIA 11, 00153 ROMA
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TRATTORIA MONTI
Just behind Roma Termini in the Esquilino neighborhood, this trattoria serves Marchigiano cuisine in a tastefully no-frills space. Only in Rome can you find tortello al rosso d’uovo–one giant, sumptuous raviolo–within a five minute walk of a major train station. Must Order: The aforementioned tortello filled with ricotta, mint, and one red egg yolk.
VIA DI SAN VITO 13, 00185 ROMA
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TRATTORIA DA CESARE AL PELLEGRINO
The new location of the famed Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto inhabits the space of another Roman institution, Settimio. Both the menu and ambience pay homage to Settimio, with much of the same decor and dishes; it’s like stepping back in time to a bygone era of Roman dining. Here, find elevated versions of the typical Roman dishes found on the menu of their Monteverde counterpart in a spot more easily accessible from the city center. Must Order: Polpette di bollito alla teresa, lesso alla picchiapò, rigatoni al sugo.
VIA DEL PELLEGRINO 117, 00186 ROMA
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TRATTORIA PENNESTRI
In the lively heart of the Quartiere Ostiense, this restaurant crafts traditional Roman dishes made in dialogue with locally sourced, seasonal, and slow food presidium products. Opened by Valeria Payero and Tommaso Pennestri, the trattoria’s interior is as warm and inviting as the duo, designed with colors and textures that call attention to the landscape and buildings of Rome. Their wine list features many natural wines, forgotten varietals, small oenological productions, specially sourced from Lazio. Must Order: Gnocchi alla romana, pici con cicoria, vitello al forno con patate.
VIA GIOVANNI DA EMPOLI 5, 00154 ROMA
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DAR FILETTARO A SANTA BARBARA
At this tiny trattoria off of Campo dè Fiori, you come here for a filetti di baccala (fried cod). Seemingly preserved in time, the quick, casual spot is somewhat of an institution, with a tight menu and locals spilling out onto plastic tables in the piazza in front at all hours of the day (and night). Must Order: Fried baccala and puntarell.
LARGO DEI LIBRARI 88, 00186 ROMA
FOR A SNACK
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REGOLI
Founded in 1916 and still managed by the Regoli family, this compact pasticceria near Santa Maria Maggiore produces incredible pastries according to ancient recipes. There can be a line, especially on the weekends, but hold out for the maritozzo; we think they make the best ones in the city.
VIA DELLO STATUTO 60, 00185 ROMA
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FORNO CAMPO DE' FIORI
It may be off one of the most touristy squares in Rome, but this 30-year-old, tiny forno is slam-packed with locals all day. While they have a great selection of baked goods, what everyone really comes for is the pizza al taglio. Elbow your way to the counter to grab a slice of the pizza rossa, pizza bianca, or pizza con patate anytime of the day.
CAMPO DE' FIORI 22, 00186 ROMA
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ROSCIOLI CAFFÈ
At this caffè and pasticceria, under the famed Roscioli umbrella, you can actually get a seat, unlike at Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina, which is always mobbed. Enjoy classic pastries–the maritozzi are great here too–excellent coffee, and a shortened version of their famed menu in a hip, bright, and welcoming space.
PIAZZA BENEDETTO CAIROLI 16, 00186 ROMA
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FARO
The premier address for specialty coffee in Rome; here, find single origin-coffee from different Italian and European roasters in a Nordic-style space with incredibly friendly staff. Plus, their pine nut and lemon cream maritozzi have something of a cult following.
VIA PIAVE 55, 00187 ROMA
FOR A DRINK
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ANTIDOTO
This unpretentious bar feels like a friendly, unfussy hangout, where the selection of natural wines is strong—and mostly from lesser-known vineyards around Europe—the rustic-modern design on point, and the conversation flows just as much as the drinks do. From the tiny kitchen, fresh, seasonal, and beautifully untraditional small plates will help you soak it all up. Here, the food is designed to complement the drinks, not the other way round.
VICOLO DEL BOLOGNA 19, 00153 ROMA
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FISCHIO
Always lively, always hard to find a seat, Fischio attracts a cool crowd to a parking lot near Cipro. The outdoor-only spot pours bottles of natural wine, house-canned cocktails, and funky artisanal beers from a kiosk plastered with stickers from other local haunts and grassroots projects by friends and locals. They also happen to sling a mean espresso.
PIAZZALE DEGLI EROI, 00136 ROMA
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RETROVINO
From the same family of the upscale RetroBottega, RetroVino is a cafe serving coffee from small-batch producers and brunch by morning, and seasonally-focused small plates and bottles of both classical and natural wines by night–or rather, as of lunchtime–in a refreshingly modern space with long communal tables.
VIA D'ASCANIO 26A, 00186 ROMA
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LA MESCITA
In the animated Piazza Trilussa, this hip enoteca was built around the values of good wine, good conversion, and good atmosphere. From aperitivo until 2 AM, stop by for a sommelier-recommended glass of wine and made-in-house nibbles. Pro tip: visit on Mondays and Thursdays, which are known as “cult days dedicated to friendship and good drinking.”
VIA LUIGI FINCATI 44, 00154 ROMA
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CIRCOLETTO ROMA
A stone’s throw from the Circus Maximus, this spot occupies the space between traditional and modern gastronomy, with an offal-heavy menu, carefully curated natural wine list, and effortlessly laid-back atmosphere. Their 4-item menu changes all the time, enough for you to come back once a week and try a new take on Roman street food.
VIA DEI CERCHI 55, 00186 ROMA
TO VISIT
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ACCADEMIA PANTHEON
Located right behind the Pantheon, this spot is home to the oldest existing national artistic association (and was named as such in 1543). Today, you can view a collection of paintings and sculptures donated by these artists–including Borromini, Canova, and Valadier.
PIAZZA DELLA CANCELLARIA 1, 00186 ROMA
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GIPSOTECA OF THE HENDRIK CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN MUSEUM
The former home and studio of the famed Norwegian-American artist, this neo-Renaissance style museum features Anderden’s works, and the first floor, initially his residence, hosts temporary exhibitions spotlighting foreign artists from the 19th century to the present.
VIA PASQUALE STANISLAO MANCINI 20, 00196 ROMA
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GALLERIA SPADA
Behind Campo de’ Fiori, this stunning palazzo hosts the seat of the Council of State, as well as a museum with a Baroque picture gallery–a rich collection of 17th-century paintings–and the famous Forced Perspective Gallery by Francesco Borromini.
PIAZZA CAPO DI FERRO 13, 00186 ROMA
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PALAZZO ALTEMPS
Once Cardinal Marco Sittico Altemps' residence, this palazzo is a treasure trove of classical art acquired by the Italian State in 1982. Make sure to see the ancient sculptures, the renowned Ludovisi family collection, and the secret courtyard painted like an enchanted garden.
PIAZZA DI SANT' APPOLINARE 46, 00186 ROMA
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APPIA ANTICA PARK
Saved from encroaching urbanization, this park is the largest urban green area in Europe and a welcome escape within the city center. Look out for the countless pieces of history within, among them the Via Appia Antica, the Nymphaeum of Egeria, monumental cisterns, the funerary mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, the archaeological site of the Villa dei Quintili, and the still-intact aqueduct infamously featured in a certain film by Paolo Sorrentino.
VIA APPIA ANTICA 42, 00178 ROMA
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MERCATO TRIONFALE & MERCATO DI TESTACCIO
Skip the overcrowded market in Campo de’ Fiori and head to one of these two instead. The Mercato Trionfale is considered the first Roman market, and its 273 stalls make it one of the largest in Europe. Any local food stuff you could want, you’ll find here. The Mercato di Testaccio, right next to what was once the largest slaughterhouse in Europe, has 100 stalls (of which Da Corrado al Banco 18 is a bit of an institution) and is an unmissable gastronomic hub for prepared foods and products.
VIA ALDO MANUZIO 66B, 00153 ROMA
TO STROLL
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PARALUMI-LAMPSHADES-LAR dal 1938
A dreamscape for those of you with 1950’s mod Pinterest boards. This artisan shop has been making handmade lampshades since, you guessed it, 1938. Though they make more classic, romantic designs, the most popular styles are funkier, with multi-colored geometric patterns and mid-century flair.
VIA DEL LEONCINO 29 00186 ROMA
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TRIPLEF
Head to this airy, multi-story concept store, created by Federica Formilli Fendi, for rare and cool finds from the worlds of fashion, design, and art. You can also bring high-end furniture, objects, lighting, and fashion items for consignment.
VIA DELLE MANTELLATE 15/A, 00165 ROMA
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TOTTI TESSUTI
At this hidden atelier at Via del Babuino 93 (ring the bell and head up to the second floor), you can find one-of-a-kind fabrics from across the world, as well as design your own prints. Browse proprietor Federica’s curated collection of Genoese handmade velvets, silks, antique hand-printed documents, vintage Venetian fabrics, and embossed leather.
VIA DEL BABUINO 93, 00187 ROMA
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HOLLYWOOD TUTTO SUL CINEMA
Movie fanatics, this one’s for you. The store is loaded with hard-to-find vintage and current movie posters (both copies and originals!) of Italian and American classics, and, for those of you with a DVD player, you can find hundreds of both blockbuster and niche titles.
VIA DI MONSERRATO 107, 00186 ROMA
HOTELS
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VUOTOPIENO
These curated apartments–of which there is also a cluster in Maremma and the Dolomites–is more than just a place to stay: at VUOTIOPIENO, both people and projects are welcome guests. The immersive space is designed to foster interaction, rest, creativity, community, and connection, providing artists a space to showcase their multidisciplinary work.
VIA PIETRO COSSA 28, 00193 ROMA
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LOCARNO
Open since 1925, this five-star boutique hotel in a converted historical estate has some of the most stunning views over Rome and Piazza del Popolo. The estate’s original purpose was as a holiday home for Venetian nobility, and many of the rooms still exude the sophistication of this bygone era. It’s no wonder numerous films and literary pieces have chosen the hotel as their settings!
VIA DELLA PENNA 22, 00186 ROMA
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VUOTOPIENO
These curated apartments–of which there is also a cluster in Maremma and the Dolomites–is more than just a place to stay: at VUOTIOPIENO, both people and projects are welcome guests. The immersive space is designed to foster interaction, rest, creativity, community, and connection, providing artists a space to showcase their multidisciplinary work.
VIA PIETRO COSSA 28, 00193 ROMA
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PALAZZO VELABRO
This hotel, built in the 18th century on the famed Via del Velabro, is an ode to Rome’s history and to Italian architect Luigi Moretti’s rationalist style, with watercolor painted ceilings, colorful walls and furniture, and polychrome marbles reminiscent of 17th-century opulence. Their seven rooms and suites are complete with stunning views of the Roman forum.
VIA DEL VELABRO 16, 00186 ROMA
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