There’s no denying that the Amalfi Coast is one of the most visited places in Italy, and for good reason. Perched over the gulf of Naples, the collection of towns along the 55-kilometer coastline boast views of Vesuvius, Capri, Ischia, and the endless blue sea, along with a plethora of massive, fragrant lemons and fresh, renowned seafood like the anchovies and tuna from the ancient fishing village Cetara. The thin strips of beach and steep stairways can get very crowded, so we recommend going anytime other than high season, from mid June to the end of August. The glitz and glamor can make it hard to decipher which places are worth a visit; here are 30 that are.
Thanks to Italy Segreta for creating this City Guide.
RESTAURANTS
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TOMMASO ALLO SCOGLIO
This restaurant is best reached by the sea–although you can also arrive by car. Founded in 1958 by the De Simone family, the restaurant, now managed by the third generation, sources all its ingredients fresh from their family farm and local fisherman. The views over the sea are so spectacular you won’t want to leave–and luckily, you won’t have to, since they also have a few rooms with their own terraces in their lovely B&B. Must Order: Antipasti of vegetables from their garden and spaghetti alla nerano.
PIAZZA DELLE SIRENE, 15, 80061 MASSA LUBRENSE
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LA TONNARELLA O’ BACCHISS
A favorite for being one of the less-crowded bagni along the coast, the hidden, old-school La Tonnarella O’ Bacchiss is best reached by boat, though you can also scramble down from the road above. There are no reservations, and you’ll eat on plastic chairs on the beach with great food at great prices, and plenty of wine, salty air, and peaches for dessert. Must Order: Gamberetti sale e pepe, piatto di pomodorini, i moscardini fritti, and paccheri allo scorfano.
VIA MARINA DI CONCA, 5, 84010 CONCA DEI MARINI
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DON ALFONSO
Don Alfonso is a two-star Michelin restaurant, farm, boutique hotel, and a perfect illustration of southern flavors taken up a notch. Owners Alfonso Laccarino and his wife Livia are known for adding fine dining to the Campanian map, as well as for their 25,000-bottle wine cellar in 6th-century tunnels below the restaurant. Their son, Ernesto, currently at the helm in the kitchen, rightfully maintains their stars. Must Order: The menu changes, but you’ll find dishes like spaghetti with Carpione-style mackerel, Siicilian pine nuts, and caramelized onions, and a fried egg with truffle and burrata.
SANT'AGATA SUI DUE GOLFI, CORSO SANT'AGATA, 11/13, 80061 MASSA LUBRENSE
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LO STUZZICHINO
This family-run trattoria glitters with the trifecta of approvals and recommendations: Slow Food, Gambero Rosso, and Michelin. Here, you eat like a local and dine on simple Italian classics elevated to a new level. The restaurant effortlessly captures that “feels-like-home” vibe: couple Paolo and Filomena De Gregorio run the kitchen, while their son Mimmo and his wife operate the dining room. Must Order: Pasta e patate con provolone and polpette di mamma filomena.
CORSO SANT'AGATA, 80061 SANT'AGATA SUI DUE GOLFI
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LA CONCA DEL SOGNO
Perched over the bay of Nerano, this beach club and restaurant really is the stuff of dreams. What began as a family passion project is now one of the highest rated bagni along the coast, with an equally famous restaurant. Choose from a selection of seafood from the tank in the restaurant, filled each morning by local fishermen, and book a sunbed on the rocks or beach to spend the rest of the day at. Must Order: Delizia al limone, crostata di fichi, and any of the raw antipasti.
VIA AMERIGO VESPUCCI, 25, 80061 MASSA LUBRENSE
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TRATTORIA DA ARMANDINO
Tucked into a quiet, emerald cove, this trattoria is one of the few in Amalfi that’s actually on the sea. Open since 1986, the kitchen offers traditional local specialties, made with fish caught nearby and vegetables from their garden. But it’s really the atmosphere that makes the place, since you’ll eat outside just steps from the sea beneath a towering cliff face, and, at night, under the twinkling stars. Must Order: Frittura mista, alici, peperonata, e totani (cuttlefish).
VIA MARINA DI PRAIA, 84010 PRAIANO
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DA NONNA LUISA
Floating in the green hills of San Pietro, visit this restaurant at the Agriturismo Antico Casale for Campanian cuisine with ingredients sourced from their farmhouse and local–often Slow Food–producers, all of whom are listed on their menu. The welcoming staff and large tables on the vine-covered terrace are reminiscent of huge family Sunday lunches at your nonna’s house. If you want a piece of the action, you can also take cooking classes here; the restaurant offers free shuttle buses from Sorrento and Positano. Must Order: Ravioli con noci e provolone and millefoglie con amarene.
PIAZZA SANT'ANTONINO, 18, 80067 SORRENTO
FOR A SNACK
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PASTICCERIA NAPOLI
This tiny bakery might look like any other Italian pasticceria, but we can guarantee you it’s anything but. If you’re lucky, you’ll be graced with the presence of Signora Pina, who’s run the bakery for three decades. The cakes are absolutely stunning–all worth bringing home for Sunday lunch–but it’s the typical Campanian pastries that can’t be missed. Must Order: Sfogliatella and pasticciotto amalfitano.
CORSO REGINNA, 64, 84010 MAIORI
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PASTICCERIA PANSA
One of the oldest confectioneries in the Amalfi region, this family-owned company–founded in 1830 by Andrea Pansa–boasts five generations of proud leadership. Recognized in 2001 as a historic landmark, the pasticceria’s insides are still covered with 19th-century decor and have welcomed storied clientele including Salvatore Quasimodo and Richard Wagner. Must Order: Pasticciotto and granita di caffe.
PIAZZA DUOMO, 40, 84011 AMALFI
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SAL DE RISO
Here, head pastry chef and mastermind Salvatore De Riso makes an assortment of desserts all with the flavors of the Amalfi Coast. He began his baking career at 21, opened his first pasticceria in 1989, and has won numerous pastry awards: some more humorous, like for the longest babà, and some more legit, including the World Pastry Star in Milan. His favorite ingredient is the Costa d'Amalfi PGI lemon, so be sure to try something flavored with the citrus. Must Order: Torta ricotta e pere and delizia al limone.
VIA ROMA, 80, 84010 MINORI -
BAFFONE GELATERIA ARTIGIANNALE
Opened by Ugo and Valentina D'Angelo in Ravello, Baffone Gelateria Artigiannale is a nod to their grandfather and his characteristic moustache (seen on their logo). Fresh, gourmet products. We recommend hazelnut and pistachio.
VIA ROMA 48, 84010 RAVELLO
FOR A DRINK
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FRANCO’S BAR
Vibrant with the colors of the Mediterranean, this contemporary al fresco bar prides itself on being just that: a bar. No frills and no reservations, but an old-fashioned, quality-first drinks menu. The bar pays homage to Don Francesco Saverio dei Marchesi Sersale (Franco for short), one of the four siblings who co-founded the famous La Sirenuse in 1951. Come for drinks and stay for the comradery, weather permitting.
VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO, 30, 84017 POSITANO
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BAR CARUSO
Inside the Belmond Hotel in Ravello, this terrace bar, complete with 18th-century frescoes and sweeping views, is the perfect place to wind down after a busy day. You’ll find an innovative list of cocktails–try something from the “flavors of the Amalfi Coast” list–alongside bubbles and a wide range of wines to sip with a few small plates, and most nights have live music from 7 PM to midnight.
PIAZZA S. GIOVANNI DEL TORO, 2, 84010 RAVELLO -
CAFE MIRANTE
Halfway down the cliff on a notoriously small, tiny, winding road, you’ll come upon this unassuming little stand. Stop in for aperitivo and enjoy an array of lemony spritzes and drinks made with only local ingredients–including basil and rosemary cut right from their terrace–and watch as the sun sinks below you first, and then the horizon beyond. The waiters are friendly and every seat in the house is a great one.
VIA MASA, 55, 84010 PRAIANO
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IL TRIDENTE COCKTAIL BAR
An incredible cocktail accompanied by a breathtaking view. A magical combo for an unforgettable experience!
VIALE PASITEA 140, 84017 POSITANO
TO VISIT
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VILLA CIMBRONE’S GARDENS
Over 365 meters above the dramatic Amalfi coastline, this villa’s gardens–with origins in the 11th century and a redesign in the 20th–are considered among the most important examples of English landscape and botany culture in Southern Europe. The draping, flower-covered walkways, bright colors, and Terrazza dell’Infinito –with its steep drop and uninterrupted view of the horizon–are particularly memorable.
VIA SANTA CHIARA, 26, 84010 RAVELLO
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VILLA RUFOLO
Built by a wealthy merchant family in the 13th century, the villa–built in an Arab and Byzantine architectural style–and its stunning gardens can be toured during the summer months. Legend says there’s hidden treasure on the grounds, but the real gold is the view of the coastline hundreds of meters below. If you’re lucky, you can visit one of the summer concerts the villa has hosted for the past several decades, on incredible stages seemingly suspended over the sea.
PIAZZA DUOMO, 1, 84010 RAVELLO
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BAGNI REGINA GIOVANNA
Take the winding road south from Sorrento to the end of the headland and–just before the road turns sharply–you’ll come across a steep set of steps, hidden between a couple of pale terracotta-coloured houses. Head down through the foliage and you’ll reach the sea-fed shaded pool in the rocks amidst some Roman ruins where you can spend the day splashing and tanning in what feels like a private bagno.
TRAVERSA PUNTA CAPO, 80067 SORRENTO
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MUSEUM DELLA CARTA
Amalfi has a centuries-old tradition of paper making, explored and uncovered in this museum within a 13th-century paper mill. Learn about the ancient techniques with their collection of restored, functional machines, and don’t leave without purchasing some handmade paper at the gift shop.
VIA DELLE CARTIERE, 23, 84011 AMALFI
TO STROLL
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CARTIERA F. AMATRUDA
The Amatrudas are the only family residing in Amalfi that continues to produce paper in the town itself. In the Valle dei Mulini, the innermost part of the town, the store is built on several levels along the Canneto River. Choose from a selection of wedding invitations, writing paper and cards, journals, and canvases for painters and watch as they make paper by hand, every single day.
VIA DELLE CARTIERE, 100, 84011 AMALFI
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CARTHUSIA
This elite brand has been capturing the scents of Amalfi since 1948 with their perfumes, candles, diffusers, and soaps. The packaging is as beautiful as their fragrances, with evocative names like “Fiori di Capri”, “Prima del Teatro San Carlo”, and “Gemme de Sole”.
VIA DELLA TARTANA, SNC, 84017 POSITANO
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CERAMICA ARTISTICA SOLIMENE
This family business, open since 1954, pays homage to the 6th-century tradition of ceramics in this slice of the Amalfi Coast. Choose from an array of tableware and home decor, each in bright shades, and take a peek at the skilled artisans working with the clay. It’s worth going to visit just to check out the insane storefront designed by Italian architect Paolo Soleri.
VIA MADONNA DEGLI ANGELI, 7, 84019 VIETRI SUL MARE
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STINGA CARSIA
Here, artisans Roberto and Franco carry on a decades-long tradition of woodworking and inlaying, both of their families and the city of Sorrento. Shop their handmade collections of both classic and contemporary inlaid marquetry styles on jewelry boxes, pen holders, frames, and other wooden creations.
VIA LUIGI DE MAIO, 16, 80067 SORRENTO
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MARCELLA AVERSA
This shop in Sorrento feels more like an art gallery than a store. Every piece is the handiwork of craftsman Marcello Aversa, who creates incredibly intricate art pieces out of terracotta. He's most passionate about preserving the traditions of the Neapolitan “cribs” or nativity scenes, and he’s made ones all the way from 8 cm large to 100 meters squared.
VIA ANTONINO SERSALE, 3, 80067 SORRENTO
HOTELS
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LA TORRE DELLA LIMONAIA
La Torre Della Limonaia is a collection of five villas tucked among lemon and olive trees along the coast. With two suited for large parties and three for smaller groups, each villa is rented in full, has its own kitchen and dining room, and offers unique features, from a medieval watchtower to private pools to citrus-laden trellises. The property combines the comforts of staying in a private home with the benefits of a luxurious hotel, making for a one-of-a-kind stay, especially as the property animals–sheeps, pigs, donkeys–run free between the villas.
STRADA STATALE AMALFITANA, 38/40, 84010 MAIORI
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DON ALFONSO
After an astounding meal at their two-Michelin-starred restaurant, you’re going to want to just crawl straight in bed–and luckily here, you can. Their assortment of suites are decorated in bright, Mediterranean colors and adorned with original 18th- and 19th-century furnishings. You’ll wake up rejuvenated to the Mediterranean sun and a tantalizing Campanian-style breakfast.
SANT'AGATA SUI DUE GOLFI, CORSO SANT'AGATA, 11/13, 80061 MASSA LUBRENSE
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LA MINERVETTA
This 12-room, intimate hotel is known for its dramatic blue, white, and red interiors–the vision of owner and architect Marco de Luca. The whole hotel is filled with breezy, nautical objects and art, including the tiled breakfast room where you’ll start each morning with a fresh crostata. During the day, claim a spot by the beautiful pool or walk down the 300 steps to the beach.
VIA CAPO, 25, 80067 SORRENTO
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CASA PRIVATA
With only seven large rooms, staying at this quaint, country villa really does feel like you’re in your own private house–and an ultra-luxurious one, at that. Every room’s design and theme differs, and each offers access to their multi-tiered layers of rocky “beachfront”–it’s one of the few properties with sea access. Coupled with their fine-dining restaurant and 5,000-square-meter garden, you’ll never want to leave the property.
VIA REZZOLA, 41, 84010 PRAIANO
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